Brightlingsea

Essex has the longest coastline of all the
counties in England, and as a child I was convinced I knew it all. Harwich, Walton-on-the-Naze, Frinton-on-Sea, Clacton, Mersea Island, Bradwell, Westcliff-on-Sea, Southend… any one would be a go-to on high days and holidays.
In those formative years when the shops were shut on Sunday and the time was spent catching up with family and friends, it was my parents who’d decide where to head; ‘traffic’ seemed an overriding concern, necessitating early starts and late nights.
Today, however, as a rose-tinted cast appears on the photographs of children squealing in the surf, sulking over beach sports and devouring seafood suppers, I sail this same coastline and it’s the tide tables and wind direction that dictate my destination. And it’s this new approach to exploring my former home county that has led to the discovery – better late than never! – of a very special site of seaside loveliness I’d never visited before: beautiful Brightlingsea!
Unusual for Essex, perhaps, this delightful Tendring town remains both understated and authentic. But if you know, you know: Brightlingsea is a prime location for sailing and watersports – definitely one to rival the more widely known Burnham-on-Crouch or West Mersea – a fabulous choice for a day out and, I believe, the epitome of all that’s best about the East Coast. Almost totally surrounded by the Colne Estuary, Brightlingsea Creek and salt marsh, Brightlingsea’s road links with the rest of the world are rather limited. In fact there’s only one road into and out of the town; during the North Sea Flood of 1953 Brightlingsea was cut off from the outside.
For sailors, the Colne/Blackwater estuary provides sheltered sea sailing at all states of the tides and the location can be unbeatable for racing, while for those who want to simply ‘potter’, the creeks and rivers – so full of wildlife – offer a lifetime of exploration and discovery.
Everything you’d expect from a good old-fashioned family day out is here: beach huts, a swimming pool and boating lake. The sandy beach is safe for paddling and swimming, and even on the busiest of Bank Holidays there’s space for everyone to enjoy a walk along the Prom. Located at Westmarsh Point at the entrance to Brightlingsea Creek, Bateman’s Tower is a folly built in 1883 by wealthy local merchant John Bateman as a place of recuperation for his daughter who was suffering from consumption. Now often mistaken for a Martello Tower, during the Second World War the original roof of the folly was removed so that the tower could be used as an observation post.
Supported by Heritage Lottery and using local craftsmen and suppliers, in 2004-5 the roof was reinstated in its original form and the tower opened to the public. The Colne Yacht Club managed the project through a small committee and match-funded the process with volunteer labour and expertise from members. It is now used exclusively by Colne Yacht Club for race officer duties and available for the public to visit on race days.
First recorded in 1315, Grade I listed Jacobs Hall on the High Street was used as a meeting place during the reign of Henry III, and visited by Queen Mary in 1938. Reputedly the oldest timber-framed building in England, it is now a private residence. The main harbour here can be very busy – in a typical year there’ll be thousands of visiting yachts, power boats, paddle boards, canoes, sailing dinghies and large cargo ships all sharing the same stretch of water. Brightlingsea Harbour Commissioners keep everyone safe, and after a sail along the coast it’s refreshing to find the Harbour Master and his team – they really are the friendliest bunch! – on their launch ready to meet and direct vessels to their berth. Fuel, water, shower and laundry facilities are all available, along with a choice of marina and pontoon berths.
•www.brightlingseaharbour.org Adjacent to Brightlingsea Harbour, this residential waterside development with apartments overlooking the water was, some time ago, something of an eyesore when building works were left unfinished. Now completed, it attracts new residents to the town and adds an upmarket punctuation point to the skyline, along with some great views of its 50-berth marina and the waters beyond.
This is also home to No.1 Harbour Square, a friendly, informal venue for food and drink – whether you’re ordering breakfast or a sundowner, the service and servings will be pleasing.
•www.no1harboursquare.co.uk Even those who arrive at Brightlingsea by sea will want to take advantage of some of the trips on offer aboard other types of vessel, beginning with the Water Taxi which transports passengers from the Harbour’s linear pontoons to the shore. Buy tokens from the Harbour Office or the coxswain on board, and don’t forget to check the ‘last trip of the day time’ if you’re heading into town for food and drinks.
For those wishing to explore further afield, the Foot Ferry will take you to both Point Clear and East Mersea. Custom-built, it has a ramp which can be lowered to allow access for wheelchair users and cycles, and dogs are welcomed aboard too.
If your schedule allows for a longer trip, a river cruise along the Colne to Wivenhoe is a must. With its narrow streets and quaint buildings, Wivenhoe has been home to many famous people and included in the price of this return boat trip is a main meal at the 300–year-old Black Buoy Inn, which is steeped in maritime history.Harbour tours and private boat charters are also offered by the Brightlingsea Harbour team.
•www.brightlingseaharbour.org